Meandros de Montebello, Chiapas

It’s hard to imagine a better beginner’s trip – or family ride – than this gentle loop around Mexico’s Lagunas de Montebello National Park. Meandros de Montebello is so named on account of its rambly and inquisitive nature. It’s packed with little out and backs in search of cenotes, viewpoints, and bathing spots. Compared to much of Chiapas – a rugged state by nature – this southernmost swathe is mostly kind in its grades. Whilst there’s a thriving, albeit low key, national tourism scene, roads – be they paved, dirt, or gravel – are invariably quiet. As for the scenery, it’s a heady mix of lush pine forest and expansive lakes, interspersed with compact settlements where coffee, limes, avocados, and bananas grow in every backyard.

The loop heads north out of Comitán, Chiapas’ fourth-largest city, turning quickly onto a series of dirt roads, faint trails, quiet pavement, and glorious pine forests to Laguna Bosque Azul, via las Grutas de Arcoton. Bosque Azul is an idyllic spot to spend your first night, especially given the company of canine Tigre, who adores attention (see photos). For those unable to tear them away from his presence, consider basing yourself at Bosque Azul for two nights – as we did – and take advantage of some unladen riding the following day. Or, break the route into smaller portions by continuing onwards to Lago International the next day, right on the border with Guatemala, a distance that allows lots of time to swim and explore.

Flora-wise, it’s pine forests, oaks, banana plantations, cornfields, coffee groves, bromeliads, orchids, and jungle vegetation, with eagles, vultures, egrettes, and various waterfowl representing the region’s fauna. Unrelated but no less enjoyable, there are numerous ice cream parlours strung out along the route, promising icy cold horchatas and locally made paletas to help temper the often hot and balmy temperatures.

And then are the lakes themselves, of course, each a varying shade of jade green, azure, turquoise, and marine blue, depending on the light and their depths. Being a National Park, some are off-limits to swimming to keep them clean – we’ve marked the ones where it’s permitted to dive in and cool off. Lakes aside, there are caves to visit and short hikes to cenotes to enjoy too, as marked on the map. These dramatic sinkholes are formed by collapsed limestone bedrock and invariably setting to a backdrop of forest greens and birdsong.

Another appealing aspect about this ride, for beginners especially, is the straightforward logistics. For anyone visiting from within Mexico, Comitán is easily easy reached by bike-friendly public transport from San Cristóbal de las Casas – and even the Yucatán and Oaxaca. There’s a prevalence of tasty food, so there’s never any need to carry much with you. This includes locally grown, almost caramelly tasting, finger-sized bananas – called morados and manzanos – and excellent regional coffee too, often served in rough earthware cups. Keep your eyes peeled for black raspberries in the pine forests, which are native to the area. It would be remiss of me not to mention the homemade coconut and melon ice cream too, scooped out of hand-pushed carts by vendors in sombreros who patrol the lakes’ car parks.

To avoid repeating itself as the route heads back to Comitán, the last 30 kilometres follow dirt and gravel roads through flat commercial farmland. Expect to share these rural connectors with other cyclists – both local mountain bikers at the weekend and farm workers during the week – the latter is likely to be seen riding a hoe balanced over the shoulder or a machete slung off a belt. Back in Comitán, there’s the promise of good food and a relaxed vibe around the city’s colonial-era plaza, Templo Santo Domingo de Guzmán, and a grid of narrow and colourful streets.

Rating: This route has been awarded a 6 because whilst the terrain is easy-going, there’s still some climbs to be tackled. Most of the surfaces are without incident, but this is Mexico, so expect potholes on pavement and a few rough stretches too. At the weekend, the area is likely to be busier – both with visiting tourists and local cyclists – and in the height of summer, the dirt roads can be dusty. Sunglasses are recommended.

With many thanks to Emma Bucke for her watercolour of the ‘Cinco Lagos – one of the collection of lakes along the way – used in the route badge artwork.

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