Meandros En Mitla, Mexico

• For the full Need to Know details on the city of Oaxaca, be sure to visit the San José del Pacífico Grand Dirt Tour.
• Best bike: You can ride this weekend tour on any mountain bike, be it rigid or with front suspension. Whatever you choose, the route is almost completely rideable, bar the odd dismount and push. However, take note of the trail leading down Huayapam, which has a few technical moves. A gravel bike will be ok for most of the route, though a bike with larger volume tyres is definitely recommended, as is low gearing for the climb up to Hierve el Agua. Learn more about bike and gear selection for Oaxaca in the Bikes, Rides, and Gear section of our extensive Oaxaca Bikepacking Routes Network Guide.
• Best time of year: Oaxaca is a popular destination throughout the year, with November to February being the high season. Bear in mind that during the dry season (November to April/May), dirt roads become increasingly dusty and temperatures soar as the months go by – especially as you descend in elevation. By April, the landscape also becomes increasingly dull and brown. In contrast, the rainy season (May to October) brings lush countryside and more bearable midday riding temperatures, but expect heavy later afternoon or nightly downpours. Thankfully, rain in the mountains of Oaxaca is rarely an all-day affair, unless there’s a storm system lingering on the Pacific coast or the Gulf of Mexico, in which case it can be rainy and overcast for a few days. Mid October through January are probably the best times to ride here, as the landscape is still green, the heaviest rains have passed, and the temperatures aren’t yet oppressive – within these months, November is perhaps the best. You could even tie in a trip with Día de Muertos, though book accomodation in advance as everywhere is especially busy.
• Expect a headwind as you ride towards Hierve El Agua, especially at the turn of the dry season.
• When in Huayapam, be sure to sample tejate from a painted gourd, a prehispanic energy drink for which the town is well known. Principal ingredients include toasted maize, fermented cacao beans, toasted mamey pits, and flor de cacao. Making time to have a coffee, or some breakfast, at the fantastic Luz de Luna, is very much recommended too.
• The Dainzú archeological site is low-key but well worth stopping for. It’s often free but if the caretaker is around, expect to pay 65 pesos. He’ll unlock the gate for a closer inspection of its stone carvings and let you into the Jaguar tomb, too.
• Mitla offers the chance to treat yourself to a night in the wonderful Casa Lyobaa (($85, 10 per cent discount for bikepackers paying cash) – it comes complete with a beautiful cactus garden, a great breakfast, an excellent record collection, and a swimming pool – visit the nearby archeological site, and enjoy a meal at Origen de Maiz. The homemade coconut ice cream on Mitla’s plaza – sold in the small stands – is especially good.
• On a Sunday especially, Teotitlan’s market is well worth a visit. It’s famous for its barbacoa, though non-meat-eaters can also admire the array of crafts from across valley – including San Marcos’ red earth pottery and baskets made from palm and carrizo – along with coffee and cacao from over the mountains. It’s worth it for the hubub alone.
• Hierve el Agua, in San Lorenzo Albarradas, is a popular tourist attraction, so it’s best to spend the night there to enjoy having it to yourself in the early hours. It’s 50 pesos to enter (and 100 pesos per tent to camp). Food is available, though stalls tend to close up shop by dusk, if you arrive late.
• The town of Matatlan, has a number of its mezcal tastings. There are other opportunities throughout the route.
• San Marcos Tlapazola, on the homeward leg, is known for its unglazed barro rojo pottery; you’ll likely see the very same pottery being sold on the streets of Oaxaca de Juárez and in many of the restaurants. It’s made from local clay in outdoor ‘ovens’ made from everything from cycle wheels to old bedframes.
• There are many other sites to see in the city that pair well with this ride, including the Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca and the Museo Textil de Oaxaca – the latter is run by the Alfredo Harp Helú Foundation.
• Bike shops: Bicimundo and Zona Bici are well stocked and both have shops in Reforma, which are recommended over their branches in the city centre. Expect to find sealant, modern drivetrain components, and a reasonable selection of mountain bike tyres, right up to 29 x 2.5/2.6″ sizes.
• Bike rentals: Aside from the full-suspension bikes provided by tour companies for their enduro tours, Bicicletas Pedro Martinez is probably the best place to rent a bike suitable for dirt road riding here. A decent Orbea hardtail costs 500 pesos ($24 USD) for 24 hours. Otherwise, pop by Bicibella Oaxaca, below Coyote tours. They may be able to set you up with something too. With a comfortable bike and accomodation, this is a tour you could do without bringing your own steed.
• Flights: Volaris, AeroMexico, and a number of other airlines fly to Oaxaca via Mexico City or Guadalajara. Airlines invariably have different bike policies – cost/size/weight – so always check ahead. I like to travel with a compact bicycle bag –  like the Tardis from Ground Effect – as it fits into smaller taxis and is easier to store in a hotel or hostel.
• Airport taxis: Depending on the size of your bike boxes, it’s likely to cost between 350 and 500 pesos ($16 to $24 USD) for a taxi from the airport into town for 2 to 3 people with bikes. You can buy tickets for the official airport taxis when you arrive (just by the exit) and it’s all regulated. If you have a small bike bag, you can likely fit it into the colectivo. For your return, download the Didi App on your phone (pay the driver directly), or arrange a shuttle through your hotel.
• Covid-19 tests: Tests suitable for air travel to the US are available at Farmacias Ahorro, a national chain of pharmacies.  You’ll need to book in advance (sometimes at least a day) but results are almost immediate. The cost is approximately 500 pesos ($24 USD). Find the closest to where you are staying, book online (laptops work better than phones), and don’t forget to bring your ID. There are other more immediate (but expensive) clinics in town too, that may well be better suited to larger groups. Your accommodation will also be able to advise.
• Safety: The Sierra Norte itself is a safe place to ride. However, as with any city, crime happens in Oaxaca de Juárez, both in the city center at night and on a few of the local trails during the day. If you’re out late, take a taxi home. In terms of riding, hiking, and running in areas close to the city, be especially mindful and see the safety information here for details.
• For general information about our extensive route network in Oaxaca, be sure to check out our Oaxaca Bikepacking Routes Network resource, with a Spanish translation coming soon. It includes details on getting there, bike shops, rentals, gear choices, food, arts and crafts, and worthwhile places to visit in the city and surrounding towns.

• Although the Mitla valley is populated, dispersed camping is possible in a number of spots, especially in the cactus groves dotted throughout the valley where only goats and cows tend to roam. Camp late in the day and leave early. If in doubt, ask locally for permission from anyone you see to camp on community/ejido land.
• We’ve also marked a couple of formal camping places on the map, too, including the fascinating Mongolian Yurt Adventure, where there’s room for one tent at a time for a taste of genuine off-grid living. There’s a discounted, cyclist’s rate of 100 pesos per tent – send FB or What’s App message (9511309722) before turning up.
• Camping at Hierve el Agua is 100 pesos per tent, in addition to the 50 peso entry fee. Visit the pools at sunrise and beat the crowds! Bring your ear plugs, as there are sometimes barking dogs…
• As a possible itinerary, consider camping before between Dainzu and Mitla on day 1, Hierve el Agua on day 2, and returning on day 3.
• If you prefer not to camp, there’s accommodation throughout the valley, including cabanas at Hierve el Agua. Check Booking.com and Airbnb. Pretty much every town has options. If you come across anywhere that’s especially good, let us know. 

• Food and water are readily available through this route. However, due to the often high temperatures in the valley, it’s worth carrying a couple of litres on board.
• When you stop in restaurants, ask to fill your bottles and offer a few extra pesos, to save buying plastic bottles. Otherwise, you can refill all your bottles at the start of the day from a 20L, re-usable water jug (a garrafon, approx 30 pesos) found in many local stores. This works out especially well if you’re 2 or more riders – although they’re larger than you’ll need,  they’re both an economical and eco-friendly way of filling up. Just explain that you’re going to fill your bottles, but not take the garrafon itself.
• We’ve marked some of our favourite eateries on the map, including Luz de Luna in Huayapam, and Origen Maiz in Mitla, for a wonderful selection of traditional cuisine.
• Otherwise, every small restaurant is likely to be able to rustle up delicious memelas and tlayudas to keep hunger at bay. Wash these down with a jarra of agua fresca, depending on what’s in season.
• When in Huayapam, be sure to sample tejate from a painted gourd, a prehispanic energy drink for which the town is well known. Principal ingredients include toasted maize, fermented cacao beans, toasted mamey pits, and flor de cacao. Making time to have a coffee, or some breakfast, at the fantastic Luz de Luna, is very much recommended too.
• There is no shortage of abarrotes – grocery stores – where you can find fresh fruit and vegetables.

Resources

• Resources: MTB Oaxaca is an excellent website that lists bike shops, trails, and day rides in and around Oaxaca. Thank you Larry for the company and sharing your knowledge of the area!