The Annapurna Circuit (Bikepacking Route)

When to go

• April to May/October and November. The best time to cycle the Annapurna Circuit is early spring from April to May, or after monsoon season between October and November (high season). Flowers and other vegetation are in bloom, but it can be warmer and more humid. Heavy rains during monsoon season clear the air in October and November and temperatures are mild. We cycled the route in December. It’s certainly doable, but there’s a larger risk of being snowed in at higher altitudes. The difference in temperature between day and night can be drastic, so pack enough warm gear.

Logistics

• Kathmandu International Airport. Most people fly in and out at the international airport in Kathmandu. From Kathmandu there are busses to Pokhara or Besisahar, the official starting point for most hikers since it’s closer to the trail. 
• Clockwise vs. counterclockwise. Because the Annapurna Circuit is a loop, it’s possible to ride clockwise or counterclockwise from Pokhara. Go clockwise for a gentler gradient to Thorung La Pass or counterclockwise for a slightly more rideable trail down. We preferred a steady climb so we could stick to the rule of not climbing more than 500 meters per day above 3,500 meters. Altitude sickness is something to take seriously in Nepal.
• Permits. Before starting, you’re required to obtain two necessary permits (ACAP & TIMS) to enter the “Restricted Areas.” You need to apply for these at the Department of Immigration in Kathmandu or in Pokhara. The costs are approximately $40 USD and you’ll need three passport photos. 
• Money. There are no ATMs along the trail, so make sure you’ll bring enough cash for the whole circuit. We worked with a budget of 10 USD per person a day and that was more than enough for us. Be sure you have crisp euros or dollars upon arriving at KTM airport to pay for the visa on arrival in cash.
• Bicycle and tires. The ideal bicycle would probably be a full-suspension mountain bike. However, the trail is suitable for gravel and touring bicycles with slightly wider rubber. The trail is mixed: rocky, dusty, hard packed gravel, and even some asphalt. We rode the Annapurna Circuit with Schwalbe Marathon 2.0” tires, which is the minimum width you can comfortably ride the route on. Next time we would go with wider and chunkier tires. Anything wider than 2.3” will do. 

Dangers 

• Altitude sickness. The Annapurna Circuit is a high-altitude trail, so there’s an inherent risk of getting altitude sickness. It’s important to acclimatize, take it easy, and drink a lot of water. In terms of altitude acclimatization, it is safest to ride from east to west, so counterclockwise. You can buy Diamox (used to prevent and reduce the symptoms of altitude sickness) in Pokhara and Kathmandu and in some shops in Mangang.
• Landslides and falling rocks. There are some dangerous landslide areas along the trail. These are marked with signs, so don’t linger around here. There’s also a risk of falling rocks and trails can be slippery, especially near river crossings. Caution and excellent bike handling skills are both needed.
• Weather. The weather in the mountains is unpredictable and can change drastically from one moment to the next. Pay close attention to the weather forecast.
• Lock. Bring a small lock and take your stuff from your bikepacking bags at night. Some of our tools and our bib shorts got stolen while up at 5,000 meters.

Travel Basics

• Manang, Muktinath, and Jomsom are bigger towns that offer some facilities. It’s possible to arrange public transport here, get medical attention, or visit the police station. There’s even an airport in Jomsom, which most hikers use to fly out to Pokhara.
• Don’t forget a buff or mask to cover your mouth from dust, as well as warm gloves.

• Camping is possible, although it can be hard to find a flat section outside of the villages. That said, camping isn’t necessary since lodging is inexpensive and you’ll probably be eating at the teahouses anyway. After Besisahar it is impossible to buy ingredients to prepare your own meals. You’ll also need to carry a lot of extra gear if you’re planning to camp—something to keep in mind when considering the massive push up and over Thorung La Pass.
• Nepali teahouses. Every 10 kilometers or so there are small villages with teahouses that offer lodging. The rooms are very basic but equipped with a good mattress and warm blanket. Bathrooms are mostly shared. All teahouses also provide a wide selection of food and drinks. Most will request that you eat dinner and breakfast with them and charge very little for lodging.
• Charging and staying connected. All teahouses have a wifi connection, but this usually costs you a little extra. As does charging your electronics at higher altitudes. So, make sure you recharge your batteries and other devices in Manang.

• Pricey snacks. Along the trail there are many small shops that sell energy bars and sodas. If you’re on a budget, make sure you pack enough snacks with you because the price of food and drinks increases in tandem with the altitude. A snickers bar can easily cost you up to $4 USD by the time you reach Manang.
• Teahouses offer local and westernized food. Our go-to meal was Dhal Bhat, as mentioned earlier. The best thing about this dish is that it’s typically unlimited, so refill your plate if you are still hungry!
• Croissants and pain au chocolats. In Manang you’ll find teahouses that sell delicious Nepali coffee and all kinds of luxurious baked goods.
• Water taps and fresh water streams are widely available on the trail. Bring your water filter, but all water should be fine to drink after filtering it. Avoid buying plastic bottles whenever possible. It isn’t an easy task to get trash back down again, so it will most likely be burned.

Pokhara – Besisahar

Bring a buff and cover your mouth on these dusty roads filled with busses driven by maniacs. Use caution! Luckily, you can leave this crazy Nepali main road for a quieter side road through farm fields with small traditional villages where you can stop for a chow mein (fried noodles) and a cold drink.

Besisahar – Chame

The official start of the ACT begins on a hiking trail, but shortly turns into a jeep track. Some places are paved (mostly around the Chinese hydro plants) but for the most part the track is clay and cobble. The road winds along massive cliffs and often runs parallel to the main trekking path. Subtropical jungle sets the scene, followed by leafy forest.

Chame – Manang

The road winds along massive cliffs with a raging river directly below. The trail becomes more challenging with steeper and steeper climbs. The climate also changes as you get higher. Spruce and pine forests decorate the foothills of the Annapurna mountain range and its snow-covered peaks. Choose between the easier, lower trail or the challenging MTB trail via Upper Pisang. The singletrack fun begins after the climb immediately following Pisang. A downhill portion through the woods is followed by a gradual climb to Manang. You’ll likely start to feel the altitude here, so take your time to acclimatize.

Manang – Thorung La

The road ends and after carrying your bike up a flight of stairs and you now share the narrow trail with hikers. You will cross the valley a few times on suspension bridges. Make sure you get some speed to make it all the way over! Make a good plan on how to continue after Manang. How much can you climb each day to avoid altitude sickness? We did it in three days. On day one we had a short easy ride to Yak Kharka. The next day we rode to Thorung Pedi, and on the same day hiked our bikes up as far as we could get them, well past high camp. You could stay in high camp, but we chose for the safer and lower Thorung Pedi. The part between Thorung Pedi and high camp is also extremely steep, sometimes up to a 40% incline, so it helps that you can leave your gear at the teahouse. This way your bicycle is as light as possible for one of the hardest parts of the trek. Start to hike back up to your bike with your gear well before sunrise the next morning so you can cross the pass early and have less risk of getting caught in dangerous weather.

Thorung La – Muktinath

After a very long push through the snow (depending on the season) you will finally reach the pass you’ve been working so hard for. It’s a magical moment, but don’t linger too long. It’s not an easy ride down to the next town, Muktinath. This is where a full-suspension bike would come in handy. The trail is extremely technical and steep and only very experienced riders should attempt actually cycling the whole thing. You can choose between a jeep track and a hiking path. The hiking path is super steep and the jeep track can only be ridden with plus or fat tires because the rocks are so big. Muktinath has plenty of well-equipped teahouses where you can finally get a hot shower again!

Muktinath – Jomsom

You won’t believe your eyes when you ride out of Muktinath, with beautiful hairpin turns on smooth asphalt. This fairytale is soon over because the surface quickly turns into a gnarly, rocky, dusty road. Get your buff out, because the busses racing by fill the air with clouds of dust.

Jomsom – Pokhara

There are more and more busses on the road that is literally falling apart in many places. You reach the leaf forest again and afterwards the subtropical jungle. The road is littered with rocks from landslides. Motor bikes, jeeps, and busses create long traffic jams. Carrying your bike over various sections of road work and other obstacles will likely be necessary along this stretch. There are some alternate hiking trails you can ride, marked by signs along the road. These will be a treat because the traffic can get very dull and you’ll already be missing the high-altitude singletrack by now. It’s very likely that on the way back down to Pokhara you’ll already be dreaming about your next adventure, though it may never top this one…

Points of Interest (by kilometer, counterclockwise from start)

• 18: Viewpoint Begnas Lake and Rupa Lake.
• 79: Big town of Besisahar—last opportunity to stock up on supplies at normal costs. Plenty of hotels. Also the first checkpoint to check permits.
• 104.8: Village of Syange—tea houses and restaurants.
• 125: Village of Dharapani—tea houses and restaurants.
• 143.3: Beautiful village of Chame. Plenty of tea houses and great place for fresh Nepali coffee.
• 155: Little detour possible to Upper Pisang. Great MTB trail.
• 158: Stunning part of the route between Chame, Pisang, and Manang with flowy trails.
• 173.5: End of the jeep trail.
• 174: Village of Manang; one of the biggest along the Annapurna Circuit. Lots of accommodations and restaurants. Great place for rest and acclimatization or day hikes. Permit check before entering Manang.
• 175: Start of steep hiking trail to the pass.
• 184.1: Village of Yak Kharka—tea houses and restaurants.
• 188.9: Amazing suspension bridge with snow-capped mountains in the background.
• 191.3: Village of Thorung Phedi. Last village before the pass. Tea houses and restaurants.
• 197.6: Thorung La Pass at 5,416 meters above sea level. Colored prayer flags.
• 210: Village of Muktinath—famous pilgrimage site for Buddhists and Hindus.
• 231.5: Village of Jomsom—lots of facilities (hotels, restaurants, police station, airport, and bus station).
• 279.7: Village of Tatopani—tea houses and restaurants. Natural hot springs.
• 340.4: Village of Nayapul—tea houses and restaurants